On Eat This Poem, Nicole Gulotta writes about her eating practices after a busy book tour and new book proposal:
…along the way, I lost my appetite. Because I was writing a book about writing, and also working full-time, and also mothering a toddler, food was one of the first things to go. Don’t get me wrong, we still ate well. Years of cooking and recipe development weren’t all for nothing—I could walk in the door at 5:30 p.m. and have dinner on the table thirty minutes later. I still meal planned, and we always had a full fridge. But sometimes we just ate avocado toast for dinner. Or popcorn. And my appetite for newness had disappeared.
Albeit for very different reasons, I recognized some of myself here in the loss of appetite–not just for eating, but for consuming other food writing. For a long time I’ve wanted to write up a big explanation of my waning presence on this website. Not because I think I owe it to anyone–I don’t have a book to publicize, for example–but because it would help me process my changing relationship to food, which has gone into some uncomfortable places that I could not have anticipated back when I was cheerfully blogging about my CSA and my personal ars gastronomica. For a very long time, I experienced both cooking and writing about food as acts of joy, pleasure, self-care, and self-knowledge. Then, suddenly, both cooking and writing felt rote and without purpose. I am finding my way back to joy and selfhood, but it’s challenging, and I need to feel okay about saying so.
USDA just changed its definition of jambalaya—with a little help from Leah Chase. This article is part memorium to the late Leah Chase, part love song to the limitless variety of regional cuisine. Should someone pontificate about the characteristics of “authentic” Creole cuisine, show this to them–and encourage them to try a bowl of tomato-less, ham-less jambalaya. It has been fully fifteen years since somebody’s momma brought a pan of brown chicken jambalaya to a party I attended, and I still think about how good it was.
First this tweet blew up my TL:
Then it blew up Helen Rosner’s hand. (Sorry!)
Vox on grilling and masculinity: “We love to talk about men and grilling maybe more than men actually love to grill — because these stereotypes may be increasingly less tied to reality.”
I meant to include this in the previous link roundup, but Milk Bar has officially renamed their poorly considered “Crack pie” and issued a statement to that effect.